AUTUMN_WINTER ’003 - ’004
Garment dyed compact treated linen felt. The Compact process is the transfer to finished garments of a textile process that is usually used to cleanse the natural fibers of their impurities. The garments are boiled at 130 °C under pressure, with special additives. In the finished garments the material shrinks approximately by 50%, it becomes extraordinarily compact, the hand of the fabrics becomes dryer and naturally elastic. The fabrics take on an uneven, hand crafted appearance, as if they had been woven on antique looms. The fabric volume reduction involved with the Compact treatment creates very important pattern making complexities. The garment can be fitted to the body with a strings and loops system on the sides, front and hood. This system is inspired by anti-G suits of military aviators. Garment dyed; Compact pieces are very receptive to the garment dyeing recipes, the colours result far more intense than those of untreated garments. Detachable lining in peached microfiber, quilted with polyester padding, attached to the outer garment using a system of ties, adapted from those used in the sailing world.