02
CHROMATIC ROOM

3 Themes

The second section is the CHROMATIC ROOM, a space in which three special research themes are exposed with the aim of explaining the design philosophy approach of Stone Island in the field of fabric transformation and of the science of colour treating the finished garments. - RASO GOMMATO REVERSE COLOUR PROCESS - MUSSOLA PRISMATICA - KEVLAR® garment dyeing technique. On the large back wall it is possible to live, through the projection of an industrial flavour film - amidst alembics, test tubes and machineries - the experience of Stone Island’s mythical Colour Laboratories. One number to explain their importance: their files contain over 60,000 of dyeing formulas, a number making clear that research is at the heart of Stone Island.

01.
RASO GOMMATO
REVERSE COLOUR PROCESS

Goal
To capsize the path of garment
dyeing construction to obtain
innovative surfaces and aspects
Steps:
STEP 1 - The garment is made in Raso Gommato, satin weave cotton of military origin bonded to a polyurethane cover. The polyurethane cover (film) used as an outer face is transparent. The cotton satin, used on the inner face is coloured with `corrosion ready’ black.
STEP 2 - An exclusive treatment on the finished piece corrodes the fabric initial black colour, mindfully excluding some small reserved areas carrying the Stone Island lettering and the process name. The double-layers parts of the jackets such as collar, placket, flaps, cuffs and the garment’s bottom hem are not attained by the corrosion process as much as its single layer parts, since they are `protected’ by the seams.
STEP 3 - The piece is over-dyed with a double colour recipe, cotton for the textile base, nylon for the polyurethane coating. In order to obtain different colouring results, it is possible to target dye formulas to the cover or textile base only.

02.
MUSSOLA PRISMATICA

Goal
A very thin, finely grained polyurethane
film is back printed in either a white,
fuchsia pink or intense yellow colour.
Steps:
STEP 1 - A very thin, finely grained polyurethane film is back printed in either a white, fuchsia pink or intense yellow colour.
STEP 2 - The printed film is bonded to a light cotton muslin textile base.
STEP 3 - The jacket is fully finished in all its components and prepared for the garment dyeing procedure (the sleeves are connected to the body of the jacket through thin cotton ribbons, the zip pull is protected in a cotton fabric sachet).
STEP 4 - The garment is coloured with a double dye recipe, nylon for the polyurethane film, cotton for the textile base. The contrasting colours on the outer and inner face, the iridescent effect, the strength of the shading diversities on the seams, meant to design the piece’s architecture, can be tuned by the targeted matching of the two dyeing recipe.

03.
KEVLAR®

Goal
Engineering of a garment dyeing
technique of a dye-proof material
Fabric upgrading steps:
STEP 1 - A series of laser cut holes are made on the Kevlar® felt surface to ease the jacket’s areas intended to undergo stressing movement.
STEP 2 - The Kevlar® felt is bonded on its right face with a very fine nylon mesh and a polyurethane film, both transparent, and by a single polyurethane transparent film on the back side.
STEP 3 - The jacket is fully finished in all its components and prepared for the garment dyeing procedure (the sleeves are connected to the body of the jacket through thin cotton ribbons, the zip pull is protected into a cotton fabric sachet).
STEP 4 - The jacket is garment dyed with a nylon only recipe. The fine nylon mesh and outer and inner polyurethane films take a deep translucent colour that does not cover the soft yellow note of the Kevlar® felt.